I have da PAOWA of God een mee!

So, i had one of those rare days where you wake up in a funk and by the time you are ready for bed you are smiling... For me, with the great inertia of my particular brand of negativity, a day that rescues itself like that is to be relished. 
When my alarm went off this morning to wake me to get ready and go to church, I was mad at it.  Giving that loud mouth alarm the cold shoulder and a dose of the silent (ok, maybe snoring, im not sure) treatment, I rolled over and went back to sleep.  I woke up REALLY LATE! I think I slept for 12 hours.  I felt well-rested, but also guilty for having skipped church.  Not just for the normal reasons one would feel guilty for skipping church, but also because this is part of my work here.  I have to integrate, and church is a great way to do that.  And the people at the church get mad when I don't show up haha.  So, well-rested, but guilty, I read a chapter of my book (YA YA Sisterhood, haha) and promised myself I would use this day to clean my desperately dirty house.  Problem is, where as sometimes guilt can be a great motivator, today it made me lazy.  Soooo, well-rested, guilty, and lazy, I popped in a DVD of a season of Grey's Anatomy (not my show of choice, but I've already watched every other DVD left by my predecessor except the Sopranos). 
Just as I settled in with a bowl of oatmeal and banana and the show started, my phone rang.  It was Tatiana, my Cameroonian friend.  She had already called twice this morning, but feeling well-rested, guilty, lazy, and a bit antisocial, I had ignored the calls.  However, the message of yesterday's episode of Grey's Anatomy had been "boundaries dont keep other people out, they fence you in."  So, being that Tatiana is the best friend I've got here, I answered the dang phone.  She said she was at the Catholic church (not the church I go to), and her choir concert started in 10 minutes, could I come?  Well-rested, guilty, lazy, and anti-social, I DID NOT WANT TO GO!  But what I said instead was, "ok, je viens..."  (ok, I'm coming...)
I threw on some nice clothes and a headscarf and walked to the church. I was about 20 minutes late, but as I walked up, I got chills as the Hallelujah Chorus rang out in perfect harmony from the mouths of my friend and her choirmates.  "HawlleyloujAH, HawlleyloujAH!"  I quietly entered and stood in the back, but a man the call the papa of the choir came and got me, telling me, "You cannot stand in the back, you are not nobody!"  He put me in a chair in the front row.  I sat there for the next 3 or 4 hours, watching as three different choirs performed.  Most of it was in French, but every once in a while an English song would come along.  They sang, "I have da POAWA of God een mee.  I have da SPEEREET of da SAWN of God een mee."  And they danced, BOOOOOY did they dance!  It was so much fun to watch, my eyes welled with tears a few times - once because the moment was spiritual, the other times just because I was thinking to myself, "My life is so freaking cool right now!"

At one point, as Tatiana's choir was performing, one of the members came out into the audience and got me! I had to go onstage and dance with them! I'm sure my cheeks were flamingo pink, but if there's one thing i know how to do after 13 years of dance classes, it is how to easily pick up dance steps. So I danced. And it was fun! They sang and we danced, repetitive steps and stomps that went with the beat... then all of a sudden, at this church choir concert, I'll be darned if those choir members didn't drop it like it's hot! They went down in a squat, swirling their hips, and I stayed up - shocked, i looked around at the choir, and they looked at me and laughed and swirled and I looked out to the audience, put my hands on my hips, shrugged my shoulders and laughed HARD. I'm sure my cheeks were American stop sign red. I was so relieved when the papa of the choir came and took my hand to lead me off stage that I wanted to hug him! But, i didn't...

I sat back down, laughed some more, and watched the rest of the show. Afterwards, they presented some awards, even having me, a visitor and a protestant, present one of the awards (I have no idea what it was for). And then we ate... A good thing about Cameroon is, whether it is a long, boring meeting or an energy-filled performance that you must sit through, rest be assured, there will be food at the end!

I was in such a good mood that, after Tatiana walked me home, I not only washed all the dishes, but also mopped all the floors. My house is no longer desperately dirty, and I no longer feel guilty, lazy, or antisocial.

I am sorry this long post lacks the spice of pictures, but I honestly wasn't expecting anything momentous to happen today. I will leave you guys with one picture and a thing I love most about Cameroon - the sky.



The view behind my house tonight.  A beautiful conclusion to an eventually beautiful day. 



Je suis trop villageoise....

I am happy to announce that standfast has already been lifted, and I am now free to move about the cabin... i mean, region.  haha...  Besides a few cases of isolated violence, the post election period was pretty smooth. 

Moving on:

My mom felt that I should include this story in my blog, so here it is - nearly word for word as I told it to her...

I went to Bafoussam (the biggish city that is 15 minutes from my village by car) the other day to load up on some groceries (I was mainly craving raisins, which cost AN ARM AND A LEG here.... could you send as many as you can possibly fit in my next care package???).  As I got out of a taxi and was adjusting my skirt and belt a little, this man in another taxi, was gestering to me grandly, and I thought he was miming to me to show some skin, which is weird here, so i waved him off disgustedly with my hand and said out loud to myself... "asshole...".  Then i crossed the crowded roundabout to the supermarket, where I had to check in my backpack at the front door.  As i was walking in and down an isle, I heard "SSSSSSPP, SSSSSSSSSPPP!!!," which usually means, "Hey girl, look over here, I want to bother you!"  So I didnt turn around, but kept on walking.   But then it was a female's voice behind that ssssp, and she yelled, "MADAME!?"  So, finally I turned around and said, "Oui?"  She came walking toward me like someone with really good gossip to tell... I waited... she walked right up to me, reached behind me and zipped up my FULLY OPEN back zipper!!!!  I stuttered out., "Uuuuh, merci......................uhhh... beaucoup!"  I now realized that the guy in the cab wasnt an asshole, but a gentleman, and that there was a reason the girl before me had left this adorable, long, high wasted, pencil skirt with cute little umbrellas all over it sitting abandoned in an empty closet of my home... haha some find!  Anyways, I still like the skirt and think i can take it to the tailor and get a new zipper for pretty cheap.



One of my favorite parts of Cameroon - the fruit - here, i have bananas, guava, apples, papaya, watermelon, and something else that I've never heard of before that is somehow related to a mango.  The crazy thing is, it will probably only take me 4 or 5 days to eat all of this!



Elections in Cameroon

Ok, so... today is officially Election Day in Cameroon. 

Although it is supposedly a democratic election, everyone expects Paul Biya, who has been president of Cameroon since 1982, to win.  There are 22 opponents, and yet there is no real competition, and thus no real suspense.  However, there is tension. The thing is, even though it is "democratic," it is illegal to congregate for anything but, as far as I can see, religion or supporting Biya.  I have heard many Cameroonians wish for someone else to be in office, and it is well known that a large portion of people in the Anglophone regions of Cameroon support the idea of secession!  I am officially on steadfast, which means I cannot leave my post and need to lay low for awhile, and I have to be ready for directions from the peace corps.  The next step, if need be, would be consolidation - which means everyone gathers in small groups.  For me, that would mean that 3 other volunteers, whom I barely know, would be coming to stay in my house.  There is not yet a guestbed, or even a chair and couch, and my place is a mess, so I am hoping that consolidation remains unneccesary!

We are hoping that everything runs fairly smoothly.  I am luckily and grateful to be living in a very calm and safe area.  If I were close to Douala, I might have reason to worry, as there was already a gunfight between protestors and police in that area.  But, as I said, I live in a very sleepy and tranquil area, and everything should be ok here.  I will try to keep you guys updated!

A Little about Bandjoun

Hey guys - Sorry it's been so long! I thought I'd share a little bit about my village here in Cameroon, which is called Bandjoun. It is actually a pretty big village, with a population of 120,000 when you count all the surrounding rural area (which they do). That being said, it definitely feels smaller than the cities here. Right now, during the rainy season, it generally rains at least once a day here, but the rain doesn't usually last very long. It is generally warm or hot, but after the rain comes it immediately drops many degrees and, actually, it gets pretty chilly!




Though you guys might like to see (and perhaps laugh lovingly at) my African Barbie outfit...



I have also taught myself to do some pretty cool braids, which comes in handy when its been awhile since my last bucket bath, haha...




Then, there is the market day, which falls every 4 days (although now they use the same week we know, their traditional week had 8 days instead of 7 - which makes the every 4 days thing make a little more sense). I LOVE market day. The little village transforms!! Suddenly, this sleepy little place is crawling with life, swarming with business. Although I hear "LA BLANCHE, LA BLANCHE" from every direction, i still consider the occasion of market day a sort of fun challenge. Mission: enter, be friendly, keep a close eye on your purse - do not allow theft, spend as little as possible, come away with as much fresh produce as possible, lug heavy purchases up the big hills to your house, plop down with a big sigh of feeling like you just accomplished something great. haha... and i haven't even mentioned the glorious frippery - or, lovingly, "the frip." This is where all of the clothes given to Goodwill in America and whatever the equivalent is in Europe come to die or be adopted. I once came away with 3 amazingly vintage looking shirts (well, one was 80s, one 90s, and the other who knows) having spent the equivalent of about $1.20. aaaah.... talk about a rewarding accomplishment...




Market Day





Beautiful Colors on Market Day




Sea of people - Market Day



I have been working a little (and by working, I mean just showing up and sitting for a couple hours) with BATOCCUL, the "microfinance institution" I've been paired up with. I put the sarcastic quotations there because, although, technically, they do provide financial services to the poor in the form of savings, they do not loan to the poor. I am very disappointed by this, and now know that I should be more specific from now on and say that I am interested in "microcredit" instead of the more general "microfinance." However, in general, the people there are nice. My favorite coworker is probably Dorothee, who has already come (by her own invitation) to eat at my house. She is my age and I think she is very beautiful, but I'm not sure she is a very hard worker haha.... My counterpart (the coworker who is supposed to be showing me the ropes) is named Helen, or MAMIE (this is apparently what they call anyone who has given birth to twins) but she recently took some vacation days (not related to the twins - she has not given birth in years). Madame Evelyn, or MA (just a term of respect) is the branch manager. She is actually from the English speaking area of Cameroon, but is also fluent in French and Fulfude (the language of the North, mostly Muslim, areas). In general, I prefer she speak French to me (the English here is so weird that sometimes French is less frustrating), but it is nice when I don't understand a French banking term to be able to have it translated quickly.




Batoccul Outside



Batoccul Inside





Dorothee, left, Veronic (intern), right

A small glimpse at their, obviously very organized, filing system



A very serious Madame Evelyn



I live in an apartment with a big gate in front. The apartment is, laughingly, quite a bit larger than the one I lived in during college :). I feel very safe here. I have a living room, two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a tiny little kitchen. I don't yet (although I may never) have a fridge, and I don't have an oven, but I do have a gas powered stove top. In general, I have electricity, although it occasionally has issues. For the first month, I never once had running water, but now it comes a few times a week during the day but not at night. Every time it comes it is like a little blessing and I am in a great mood! I feel embarassed for ever having complained about doing dishes or laundry in america where there is not only running water but machines!

The little road that leads to my house, the black building on the left





My big and, I think, very pretty front gate







The inside of my concession.  There is a large family with like 7 or 8 kids who live on the whole bottom floor.  I have most of the top floor, but there is a small studio apartment all the way to the right, where a bunch of highschool boys live together.  There is also a well inside the concession, which is where my water comes from for washing clothes and dishes.  However, it is not potable, so I have to collect rainwater to filter and drink. 

My front door - 2nd floor







One of the things i like most about this place is that PEOPLE REALLY DO CARRY THINGS ON THEIR HEADS!  And i mean EVERYTHING...  suitcases, things they are selling, peanuts, multiple hats, buckets, big sacs full of, i dunno, bananas, even if all they would have in their hands is a single machette, some people will instead carry it on their head.




I followed this man around for quite awhile trying to get a good pic.  On market day, these men are numerous, and it cracks me up when they stop to talk to eachother like everything is normal.... his legs are buckling, for goodness sake!
(Sorry, no picture to demonstrate the next point, haha)



One of the things i dislike most about this place is that men pee in public.... im talking, ill be walking 10 feet behind some man, and he'll just stop right in front of me, turn to the side, and whip it out!  ugh - i feel so awkward and they are not even phased!  (I do like, however, the signs i see everonce in awhile in french that say "forbidden to urinate here" haha... those are funny.)

Bafia before I leave, and Cameroonian Fashion

Well guys, I don't really have a good blog post prepared, but I thought I'd show you some pictures of things Bafia before I leave here.  My swear in date is August 17.  It's going to be a huge day for me, that night I will say goodbye to many of my friends, and the next day I will depart for my post.

The SED House

An example of one of the sheds for our language classes.... basically an oven in the middle of a the day, haha

My favorite distraction during language class, I lovingly refer to this as the rainbow lizard.  It is actually of the genus Agama, and they are usually about 6 in. long.  It spends its time doing what looks like pushups and chasing off smaller lizards.  Here in Cameroon, if someone is overly proud or egotistic, you say he is like a lizard.  

Me with my classmates and teachers for one of my language classes (they change every 2 weeks)

What frustration, culture clash, and lack of sleep look like in an African French language class

Right now, I am in the middle of working on a big report that is due this week.  We each had to choose a topic that related to the culture of Cameroon, and !SURPRISE! i chose clothing in the different regions of Cameroon.  I have to write a paper and give a 30 minute presentation in French.  Believe it or not, I can actually do that now!  My French is nowhere near perfect, and I still need a lot of improvement, but I'm impressed with my progress nonetheless.  

 The Grand North, which actually includes the regions of the Extreme North, the North, and the Adamaoua is heavily influenced by the Fulbe (or Fulani), which is a Muslim group (they are actually a minority there, but are the dominant culture).  There, men, both Muslim and Christian, wear what is called a boubou, and they have a fabric called basin, which is of a solid color, but has patterns on it of a different sheen or texture.  The women cover there heads and wear pagnes in layers.  

Pagne is the most important thing you need to know about Cameroonian fashion.  It's this brightly colored and patterned cotton fabric, and pretty much everyone has it in their closet, if not on their body most days.  The women in much of the land often wear what's called a kaba.  This is a dress, and there are two types, the kaba Ngondo, which comes from a water-based ceremony of the Sawa people in the Littoral and Southwest regions, but now is worn in much of the country, and the kaba cellulaire, which is a short-sleeved and shorter version of the kaba ngondo. 

(Most of the pictures that follow are not mine, but are taken either from the internet or from very nice cameroon pcv's who sent me pics when I asked for them :) ) 

Women and girls in the North

Pagne shopping anyone??

Women in Kaba Ngondo's -  Women in social groups often wear matching Pagne

Kaba cellulaire

Pagne is interpreted more and more liberally over time

Boubous!
http://kariborders.blogspot.com/2004/02/tabaski-in-senegal-warning-pictures.html
(Borrowed Picture) 

Also, I should mention that the fashion of the Center of Cameroon, as well as that of much of the youth of Cameroon has over time been very affected by the trends of Europe and the US.  Sometimes, it's hard to tell if I am looking at a group of African teenagers, or a group of African American teenagers with a really quirky sense of style (I'll take a picture to demonstrate this and post it later)!

Cameroon is often called "Africa in miniature" because it has different regions with all the different climates and landscapes of Africa, and because it is EXTREMELY diverse.  There are about 250 different ethnic groups in Cameroon, and each has its culture, rituals, and sometimes its own traditional or ceremonial dress.  I have only given you a snapshot of the fashion of this culture-rich country. 

celebrating my bday

There was ALOT of food!

The homemade guac and tortilla chips were the biggest hit.

We ate........

And ate....

Aaaaaand ate....

And ate......

and ate some more.... (This is Preston.  It is rare to see Preston without bread in his hand - he is unashamed....)

Saturday night, we had the party for all the July birthdays.  There were three of us.  It took place at what we call the SED House, which is the abandoned, unfinished  mansion where the SED volunteers have all our language classes and training sessions.  We all brought food, and I ate way too much!  We had so much fun, but unfortunately we had to be cut it short at 8:30 pm because a couple people WHO SHALL REMAIN NAMELESS decided to break our 11:00 curfew at the last party.  We still had plenty of time to accomplish the missions of the party :)!

A big group of trainees picking teams for stick ball at the july birthday party (those who know me best will be surprised to learn that i did not participate).

Christian and Christine watching the game

Our Cameroonian director of training, David (Daveeeed), successfully hitting the ball.
I did not bother to post the 5 pictures before this one of unsuccessful attempts.

David walking off with a bit of swagger after his success.
Of course, he knew what he was doing the whole time... haha

A random Cameroonian child showing out for us during our party!

This is Kim.  She is originally from Texas, but went to college in Kansas.
Her post is only about 15-20 min from mine.
If all works as planned, she will be my best friend here, haha.

Me with some of my best friends during training.
Kim, Eric, and Sean

Everyone singing happy birthday to me at the July birthday party.  

I got a cake with lollipops instead of candles - everyone know I have a major sweet tooth.

Also, they couldn't find candles :)

As many of you know, I had a birthday Wednesday.  Unfortunately, it was pretty much a normal day of training, with 4 hours of language classes and some tech sessions too.  After training, I went to a bar that’s a bit of a walk from the SED House, but actually had a good turnout for “feter”  (celebrating – pronounced FE-TAY) my birthday.  There were probably about 35 or so volunteers, and I was happily surprised!  We had a good time, but I missed my family and friends very much on my special day.  I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a little bit lonely, but I know I’m here for a reason and I’m proud of myself for having the strength and dedication to come follow my dreams. 

At the bar celebrating

Eric had peanut shell in his eye... he looks possessed and i don't look very sympathetic.

He's an awesome Kansas city boy.  

3 Americans and a Cameroonian

These hut things at the bar are pretty cool.... but not quite as cool as they look in pictures

I think people enjoyed my birthday!